New York Fashion Week Lookback
By Briana Anderson, Michaela Bisienere, Rachel Godfrey, Jordan Johnson and Leslie Wheeler
Highlights, trends and favorites from last week.
BCBG Max Azria
The brand celebrated its 25th anniversary as one of the first shows of the week. BCBG played with asymmetrical hemlines, color-blocked ponchos and gaucho pants to create an easy, laid-back elegance for fall 2014. Fur played a major role this season whether it was on a collar, a vest or an oversized sweater. The effect was minimalist and cozy, and the fur looked luxurious without being too fussy.
Peter Pilotto for Target
The London-based Peter Pilotto has joined the ranks of Phillip Lim, Jason Wu and Zac Posen as another group of A-list designers who have collaborated with Target. The collection hit stores Feb. 9, but we got a sneak peak of the good things to come at the Feb. 6 preview party in New York. Alexa Chung, Diane Kruger and Man Repeller’s Leandra Medine were there to admire the bold colors and graphic prints – think exactly what you’d want to be wearing when that first warm day rolls around in the spring. The duo, made of up designers Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos, won this year’s BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund.
2014 Go Red for Women/The Heart Truth Red Dress Collection
Since 2003, the American Heart Association’s Go Red for Women and the National Heart, Lung and Blood Institute’s The Heart Truth have partnered to present this show at the kickoff of New York Fashion Week to raise awareness for heart disease. The all-red show features celebrity athletes, actors and models in crimson gowns by well-known designers including Marchesa, Diane von Furstenberg and Oscar de la Renta. Olympic skier Lindsey Vonn had to sit out of the Sochi games with an injured knee but came to rock crutches and Cynthia Rowley on the runway. Joan Jett, AnnaSophia Robb and Colbie Caillat were among the other celebrities walking in the Red Dress Collection.
The intrigue of Alexander Wang’s collection enticed fashionistas to schlep down to Brooklyn’s Navy Yard, far from the chaos of the tents at Lincoln Center. Complete with a spinning runway, Wang dazzled with his dramatic flair.
Models were unrecognizable with icy stares, bleached brows and slick-straight wigs, which reflected the androgynous overtones of the show. They marched down the runway in utilitarian dresses with rows of pockets for things you never knew you needed. Wang played with gender bending in menswear-inspired frocks. Billowing slacks hid under oversized coats with massive lapels that veiled any trace of womanly curves.
The collection had a futuristic feel with heavy fabrics and straight silhouettes. Pops of neon yellow, hot pink and electric blue accented countless shades of grey. Wang’s mastery of texture was evident in chunky wool sweaters with geometric three-dimensional patterns that just begged to be touched. Paisley laser cut leather coats gleamed under the glowing lights. Wang even made leather sweatpants in every color, which are sure to strike Kanye’s fancy.
From ball gowns to swing coats, Christian Siriano delivered an impeccable collection that emulated ‘50s chic. Project Runway’s golden child sent silken stunners down the runway that epitomized elegance.
Grey pleats glowed like ripples of molten metal, as voluminous midi skirts flowed effortlessly. Siriano’s fabric choices oozed femininity through every inch.
Clearly a fan of jewel tones, amethyst and emerald manifested themselves head-to-toe in fur jackets, cropped suits and trench coats. Black architectural hats embodied Parisian style.
Capes are the new black. The fashion statement caught our eye on the red carpet and stunned as part of Siriano’s collection. Bell sleeves and swing coats were revamped for the modern woman in sleek shades and lush fabrics. The collection shifted from structured hemlines and monochromatic looks to laser cut lace polka dots and a three-piece suit in a checkerboard print. The collection captured a demure sophistication that Audrey Hepburn would approve of but with progressive detail fit for the powerful woman.
Monique Lhuillier painted a gothic fairytale with her collection. The runway was dominated by all black everything. Glittering fabric was juxtaposed with matte leather and a fur collar all in one dress. Lhuillier paid homage to a woman’s form with body hugging seams and skirts with a flawless feminine flounce.
Scrolls of intricate black embroidery climbed up a tulle dress like ivy. Golden skulls glistened over a delicate bodice and mini circle skirt like a rebellious Disney princess. Lhuillier played with flirty and asymmetrical hemlines alongside classic cocktail dresses. Hot pink accents popped against endless black and injected a whimsical spirit into the collection’s darkness.
Hollywood darling Prabal Gurung has become a starlet staple on the red carpet. Gurung’s collection is unmistakable as his mixed media aesthetic defines him as a designer. He weaves contrasting textures together in a patchwork so seamless, you would think the fabric came straight off the roll like that.
Gurung embraced a duality of seasons with heavy fur lapels, turtlenecks and a fusion between a blanket and a cape perfectly fit for a polar vortex, alongside springtime mini skirts and sleeveless cutout tops.
Immaculate draping shows Gurung’s technical skill, but his combination of patterns was hit or miss. When he combined brazen colors like red and orange with a loud pattern and multicolored fur, I recoiled in sensory overload. Several pieces featured a wrapping technique, which were reminiscent of a baby’s swaddle. Less is more, even at New York Fashion Week.
Gurung’s show was interrupted by a shameless streaker who donned a crown and red tube socks to compliment his leopard print thong. Veteran models were unfazed by this cheeky display and continued to strut down the runway in flowing organza gowns.
Props to that streaker for baring it all in blizzard-befitting weather--Certainly, the tanned staff at GFW, used to sunny skies and 70-degree days here in Gainesville, wouldn't have survived a second! While we don't envy the weather, we do envy the buyers and editors and assistants (including some of our own alumni!) who are seeing the magic happen firsthand. So, ee’re glued to our favorite fashion blogs and retweeting up a storm – what was fashion week before Instagram? From the new designers that have Anna Wintour straightening up in her seat and the beauty trick that we can’t wait to steal, here’s a rundown of Sunday’s shows ICYMI.
And on the fourth day, Delpozo created texture. The Spanish fashion house has shown in New York for just three seasons now and is already generating buzz in A-list circles. Sarah Jessica Parker donned Delpozo for the cover of this month’s Instyle magazine, sporting a gleaming rainbow-hued dress worthy of Carrie Bradshaw herself.
For Fall 2014, Delpozo struck a balance between soft and feminine and stronger, more sculpted silhouettes, all the while keeping us enamored with intricate embroidery and flawless detailing. Sequins, soft wool and floral flourishes made us want to reach out and touch every piece sent down the runway. In an age where it’s easy to get distracted by the spectacle of couture shows, the craftsmanship in Delpozo’s latest collection commanded our attention right back to the pure beauty of top-notch design.
2014 marks the 40th anniversary of Diane Von Furstenberg’s signature wrap dress that skyrocketed her to high-fashion royalty. This season’s show had DVF going back to her roots with the classic silhouette, using the well-loved staple to anchor splashy and geometric patterns.
DVF was able to pay homage the wrap dress without making us realize that we’ve been looking at it for four decades now. The rest of the show was a little less classic and a lot more abstract, with dreamy prints and a whimsical, mix-and-match approach.
The designers behind Opening Ceremony’s latest set might have had access to my daydreams. The Belgium-inspired fall collection was presented Sunday night as the walls of the venue began to leak real melted chocolate, filling the Tribeca venue with the smell of the one of the other best things to come out of Belgium.
The chocolate walls made for amazing social media coverage and lent a new kind of fun to the show. Guests also received boxed chocolate as they came into the show and gazed at a runway filled with handprint patterns, athletic-inspired aesthetics and other pieces meant to invoke visions of the Belgian town of Antwerp.
For one of the coolest beauty looks of the day, Band of Outsiders had us digging the lip liner out of the bottom of our makeup drawers with their update on the nude lip. Lining a soft, pink neutral shade with darker eyeliner was the perfect compliment to the dark-hued, graphic-printed collection, especially when paired with sleek-and-simple ponytails.
Public School made waves with their ultra-urban, ultra-masculine take on Fall 2014 menswear. Designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow also debuted their first pieces made for women at Sunday night’s show. Everything about the collection reflected the tough, modern roots of this New York-based label.
Watching from the sidelines was everyone from Anna Wintour and Prabal Gurung himself to Joe Jonas and Kelly Rowland. A standing ovation and glowing media responses from industry insiders put this up-and-coming duo on the map.
Designers pulled out all the stops during Monday’s runway shows.
Zac Posen presented a collection of gorgeous glam gowns. He said he was “more disciplined as he created his latest collection,” according to an interview with the Associated Press. He limited his choice of fabrics and color palette. But, the changes didn’t damper the line’s glamour in any way.
The show began with practical daytime styles including tweed suits and wool coats, then segued into evening attire featuring off-the-shoulder cocktail dresses. However, the best was yet to come. Down the runway marched an opera coat in jet-black wool and lavish gowns with notable silhouettes.
Carolina Herrera put forth a cohesive show of luxe coats and glittering geometric prints. She placed an emphasis on daywear that featured abstract prints and statement jewelry. She used fur as an accent on some of her pieces, while presenting some full-on fur at times.
Tommy Hilfiger presented his line with a rustic, wintry scene. His clothes fit the chilly surroundings with plaid patterns, wool skirts and mohair dresses. Fringe made its debut on sweaters, skirts and dresses, but colors remained muted – dark blue, gray, black and cream hues being the most prominent. Hilfiger described the collection as one with an “adventure-ready spirit.”
The frosty weather seemed to dominate the mood on the fifth day of New York Fashion Week as designers showcased their variations of warm clothing and formal attire.
Late Highlights: Some Show Stealers
The NYFW 2014 Wednesday show had Michael Kors in the early morning displaying his earthy spring ensembles at 50 Varick Street, leaving everyone gasping for more. Brown or Green? We just can’t decide.
Our next favorite: the sleek, elegant style from Hugo BOSS, moving shades of grey and black across W. 55th street. Mysterious might just be the modern fabulous.
But revelation really hit the audience when it got a taste of the 2014 designs of Betsey Johnson, an incredibly talented designer who never fails to send her models hitting the runway with a bang. This year, she didn’t leave the wow factor to just the clothing—the real hit is in the HAIR! And with each piece fierce as ever, we finally chose our favorite:
Last, but certainly not least, Savory soft colors ended night seven of this season’s NYFW. The perfect ending to the hump day runway was B. MICHAEL AMERICA. With the most graceful flavor of the evening. Sweet pieces like these will make any crowd melt.
Surely, no one in NYC was melting as more winter weather swept into the city on the last days of NYFW. In any case, no matter the weather, no one would miss the last shows, where hree of the biggest designers, Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs and Ralph Lauren, showed off their Fall collections, and definitely ended the show with a bang.
Calvin Klein featured models with combat boots and neutral colors. Black and white remained popular throughout his show, and sophistication was depicted upon the clothing. Models wore long skirts and dresses, also showing the colors of deep reds and greens. The clothing had an urban, but masculine touch to it.
Marc Jacobs put on an absolutely beautiful show with an almost heavenly feel. Foam clouds hung from the ceiling, and the atmosphere was opposite from last season’s show, in which was much gloomier. Jacobs’ Fall collection, full of baby blues and neutral shades, gave each model an untouched, angelic appearance. The models wore simple makeup, as their fair, striking faces portrayed a serious look. Marc Jacobs executed a fantastic show, and showed his collection of ruffles, fur and pastels in a form of beautiful innocence.
And lastly, but definitely not least, Ralph Lauren also presented his collection on Day 8 of New York Fashion Week 2014. His stunning clothing portrayed a type of glamour, as models strut the runway in oversized fur coats and floor-length dresses. Pants and blazers were also a part of the collection, but elegance accompanied each one of these looks. His color scheme, full of whites, grays and light pinks/purples, also gave a hint as to what will be trending in the upcoming season.
All in all, designers put on an amazing week, and New York City was once again blessed with beautiful shows and a taste of the timeless importance of fashion.